Beyond the Noise: On the road with Mackenzie Wright - The Kooka visits the home of golf.

UK • Travel • Culture

Article By Mackenzie Wright.
Photos by Mackenzie Wright & Demi Gavin. 

In July, Mackenzie and his partner drove around Scotland in a rental camper van to get a taste of the historic home of golf. A budget-friendly way to experience world-class golf.

Five courses were on his radar, starting on the east coast before heading up to the Highlands, then west towards the Isle of Skye.

After getting his first taste of golf in Scotland, Mackenzie is already planning to return.

I've played golf my entire life, but I have never done a golf trip overseas other than New Zealand. Travelling to the other side of the world really shows how isolated we are in Australia.

In recent years, golf in Australia has seen enormous growth, so it was nice to get away from all the noise. Ironically, it was in a place steeped in so much history that I felt most at peace. Scotland as a whole was extremely peaceful, and playing golf there was a reminder of how I want to experience the game.

There's nothing that makes me feel more alive than going somewhere new. Whether that's on a golf course, figuring out how to hit a shot to a tucked right pin, with the wind off the right and the ball above your feet. Or off the golf course, discovering something that makes you feel small. I want to see it all, and golf is a great vehicle for that.

Trips like this are a reminder of why I love golf. I spent so many years trying to become "something better" that I would neglect the present moment. This trip was a perfect reminder of how I want to experience golf.

Our first stop of the road trip was of course, the Home of Golf, St Andrews.

From EA Sports to, more recently, TrackMan virtual golf, St Andrews had a familiar feeling. Even though I had a clear picture of what the 1st tee and 18th green of the Old Course looked like, I had no idea how much the entire town lived and breathed golf. As a golfer, a town like St Andrews is a reminder that you're part of something greater than just a game.

I was so immersed in the sounds and scenes of St Andrews that I didn't even attempt to split the G of my Guinness. Maybe that was bad luck, as my attempt at a spot in the singles ballot failed. 

Fairmont, Kittocks Course.

After failing to secure a spot in the singles ballot at the Old Course, a quick Google Maps flyover found me just a few kilometres down the road, where Fairmont's Kittocks Course helped set the scene for golfing in Scotland. A moody, overcast morning gave me a taste of the weather I expected. Even under grey skies, the views over the Fife coastline were spectacular. With no one in sight except a few local coos (cows), Kittocks was a welcoming introduction to golf in Scotland. Each swing was a chance to shake the jet lag and find some form.

Kingsbarns.

Next up was a course I had pencilled in early in my research of what courses to play during my time in Scotland. Just a few more kilometres down the road along the same stretch of coastline looking out to the North Sea, lies Kingsbarns.

Kingsbarns has been recognised as one of the best modern golf courses in the world since opening in 2000. But this place was like a walk through time: a modern driving range and warm-up facilities paired with a layout that feels like it's always been part of the land.

A modern taste of links golf. A place any modern facility could draw inspiration from. From signature holes to superb service, Kingsbarns is a course I'd happily return to over and over.

Royal Aberdeen.

Next up was a stroll through history, and this club has plenty of it. Royal Aberdeen is the 6th oldest golf club in the world, beginning back in 1780.

One of the more intimidating tee shots, with the clubhouse within steps of the 1st tee. Still, it came with a warm welcome from Head Professional David Ross.

The local caddie, a greenskeeper and scratch golfer, was full of wisdom and stories, pointing me in the right direction on a visually demanding course. Even after a great shot, I'd hear about the time McIlroy, or some other world-class pro, hit it 80 metres past where I was standing. A gentle reminder of why I play for fun.

Old Petty.

Scotland has found a way to honour tradition while keeping up with an evolving game. Sometimes the newest courses carry the oldest stories. No better example than the new course at Cabot Highlands, Old Petty.

Old Petty sits beside the historic Old Petty Church, with views over the 400-year-old Castle Stuart from 13 of its 18 holes. Proof that a brand-new course can still feel deeply connected to the history of the land it sits on.

Its build was led by a leading modern golf course architect, Tom Doak, who also designed New Zealand's latest golfing destination, Te Arai Links, North Course. Old Petty felt familiar to that layout, though the historical view of Castle Stuart was like nothing I'd ever seen on any golf course.

Castle Stuart.

Castle Stuart was literally on another level.

It's built along the Moray Firth, which is Scotland's largest sea inlet. The course's first three holes on each nine (holes 1-3 and 10-12) hug the shoreline. Even after 90 holes of golf, this place was the most enthralling, with each hole revealed only after completing the one before it. Holes 4-9 and 13-18 turn inland, climbing the natural dunes so you're looking back down on the holes you've just played. The two nines are split either side of the clubhouse, with both the 9th and 18th finishing right beneath the three-storey modern clubhouse.

I certainly have my favourite holes and courses from the trip, but I don't like ranking golf courses. They all leave you with a feeling another can't replace. In fact, putting a label on anything can limit the experience.

No matter if you're playing a course worth £40 or a course worth £400, the golf courses here challenge you to show creativity. The best way isn't always the most obvious. Even if you're a specialist in one golfing skill, the course will force you into a new one. These courses have seen all the latest trends in equipment, technology, and technique, but their greatest defence is always nature. And some days you just have to accept nature is the winner.

In just five rounds of golf in Scotland, I was reminded of how I want to experience golf. Golf's growing fast back home in Aus, which is great, but growth shouldn't mean leaving tradition behind. The best parts of golf are still in its purest form.

Choose the course over a simulator. Walk the course over riding in a cart. Use a physical scorecard over a digital screen. Play a new course and read the local rules. Take the starter's advice on the first tee. If you want to improve, play with someone better than you instead of scrolling for advice.

By the end of the road trip, I'd forgotten every score but went home wanting to experience more.